Community Theater Green Room Discussion Board: Cutting a straight line with the wrong tool

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thrillwill
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Topic: Cutting a straight line with the wrong tool
Posted: 10/23/08 at 10:42am

First off let me just say that one should always use the right tool for the right job.

- BUT -

A table saw is really expensive for the school I am helping out (some set pieces for a Nativity show) and all I have in my tool arsenal for ripping 4 x 8 sheets of 1/4 ply is the venerable jig saw.

OK so all on it's own it's impossible to rip an 8' cut with a jig saw. This I know both from studies and from experience. I tried clamping a 1x3 in a straight line to 'brace' the jig saw with but in flight the saw managed to actually work it's way under the brace = wiggly line.

At this point I am just cutting my pieces an 1/8" wider than necessary and then forcing the nephew to sand it down flush with the frame.

But I wonder if anyone else has found a work around for this situation?

Will Leamon
http://www.classiccityarts.com

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Topper
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Posted: 10/23/08 at 10:52am

As you've discovered, clamping doesn't work because the material sags in the middle, allowing the saw's guide to sneak under the brace.

Instead, snap a chalk line and then use a 1x3 and screw it in place every 16" inches or so, straightening it against the line as you go. This will not only give you a firmer brace to guide against, but also has the advantage of preventing the plywood from sagging.

Filling in the tiny screw holes afterwards (if even necessary) takes far less time than trying to sand the whole thing flush.

"None of us really grow up. All we ever do is learn how to behave in public." -- Keith Johnstone

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thrillwill
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Posted: 10/23/08 at 11:00am

So would you fill those holes with standard putty or something else?

Will Leamon
http://www.classiccityarts.com

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dboris
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Posted: 10/23/08 at 12:36pm

You also might want to think about investing in a circular saw. You can get one for well under $100 and although not as good as a table saw for straight cuts, it's better then the jigsaw.

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JoeMc
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Posted: 10/24/08 at 1:03am

Check out the 'Redeye' Circular saws. They are mainly GMC products, made in China - so they are as cheap as chips these days.

http://www.gmcompany.com.au/index.cfm?module=products&pid=502

Also there are a heap of cheap laser products for the DYI handy market, which would help.

http://www.laserglow.com/?gclid=CNisu42Iv5YCFSAUagodJVmczQ

[western] Gondawandaland
"Hear the light & see the sound!
TOI TOI CHOOKAS
{may you always play to a full house!}

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Spectrum
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Posted: 10/24/08 at 11:53am

Harbor Freight Tools (available online or mail order if not near you) usually has a circular saw on sale in the $25 - $40 range. They are usually made by Chicago Electric or Skil so they're not great but fairly reliable and FAR better than a jig saw for ripping plywood.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=6188

And NO, I don't have any connections with Harbor Freight. They just have a good array of inexpensive tools.

Growing old is mandatory. Growing up is optional.

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Topper
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Posted: 10/24/08 at 3:52pm

I agree investing in a circular saw would be better (and faster), but the above bracing method works just as well for that tool also.

As for filling in the holes, it's entirely up to you. Especially for a set piece that will only be viewed from a distance. Personally, I'm a big fan of painter's caulk because it's fast, cheap and cleans up easily.

"None of us really grow up. All we ever do is learn how to behave in public." -- Keith Johnstone

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thrillwill
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Posted: 10/27/08 at 1:01pm

Hey all - just wanted to post an update on the quest for a straight cut...

Yes a circular saw in the arsenal would be very nice. Especially one with a lazer sight - My new powered mitre box has one and I love it. But for this conversation I think a circular saw would just be the same mistake only faster.

The nephew and I tried Topper's trick with screwing the brace down every 16" but sadly hit the same snag - the saw worked it's way under the brace. This time though the brace had enough force to stop the saw in its tracks which let me know my line was drifting.

I think this weekend we'll try it again but reduce the gap to 10" per screw and see if that does the trick.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions everybody - and keep'em coming :)

Will.

Will Leamon
http://www.classiccityarts.com

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Topper
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Posted: 10/27/08 at 3:29pm

Sorry to hear about the snag. I forgot to ask what thickness of plywood you were using. If it's thinner than 1/2 inch, then yes you should space the screws closer together.

My bad.

"None of us really grow up. All we ever do is learn how to behave in public." -- Keith Johnstone

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flyweed
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Posted: 11/03/08 at 11:24pm

AAAHHHH...someone said harbor freight and Chicago Electric. stay away from both. Cheap, shoddily made, garbage. If you are going to buy tools you want to last, buy good ones.....in this case you DO get what you pay for.

Dan

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Set Design and Construction
Community Theater Green Room Discussion Board :Producing Theater :Set Design and Construction

Topic: Cutting a straight line with the wrong tool( Topic Closed)
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Author	Message
thrillwill Player Joined: 10/21/08 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 20	Topic: Cutting a straight line with the wrong tool Posted: 10/23/08 at 10:42am
	First off let me just say that one should always use the right tool for the right job. - BUT - A table saw is really expensive for the school I am helping out (some set pieces for a Nativity show) and all I have in my tool arsenal for ripping 4 x 8 sheets of 1/4 ply is the venerable jig saw. OK so all on it's own it's impossible to rip an 8' cut with a jig saw. This I know both from studies and from experience. I tried clamping a 1x3 in a straight line to 'brace' the jig saw with but in flight the saw managed to actually work it's way under the brace = wiggly line. At this point I am just cutting my pieces an 1/8" wider than necessary and then forcing the nephew to sand it down flush with the frame. But I wonder if anyone else has found a work around for this situation?
	Will Leamon http://www.classiccityarts.com

	IP Logged

Topper Celebrity Joined: 1/27/05 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 543	Posted: 10/23/08 at 10:52am
	As you've discovered, clamping doesn't work because the material sags in the middle, allowing the saw's guide to sneak under the brace. Instead, snap a chalk line and then use a 1x3 and screw it in place every 16" inches or so, straightening it against the line as you go. This will not only give you a firmer brace to guide against, but also has the advantage of preventing the plywood from sagging. Filling in the tiny screw holes afterwards (if even necessary) takes far less time than trying to sand the whole thing flush.
	"None of us really grow up. All we ever do is learn how to behave in public." -- Keith Johnstone
	IP Logged

thrillwill Player Joined: 10/21/08 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 20	Posted: 10/23/08 at 11:00am
	So would you fill those holes with standard putty or something else?
	Will Leamon http://www.classiccityarts.com
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dboris Celebrity Joined: 2/10/04 Online Status: Offline Posts: 124	Posted: 10/23/08 at 12:36pm
	You also might want to think about investing in a circular saw. You can get one for well under $100 and although not as good as a table saw for straight cuts, it's better then the jigsaw.
	IP Logged

JoeMc Celebrity Joined: 3/13/06 Location: Australia Online Status: Offline Posts: 832	Posted: 10/24/08 at 1:03am
	Check out the 'Redeye' Circular saws. They are mainly GMC products, made in China - so they are as cheap as chips these days. http://www.gmcompany.com.au/index.cfm?module=products&pid=502 Also there are a heap of cheap laser products for the DYI handy market, which would help. http://www.laserglow.com/?gclid=CNisu42Iv5YCFSAUagodJVmczQ
	[western] Gondawandaland "Hear the light & see the sound! TOI TOI CHOOKAS {may you always play to a full house!}
	IP Logged

Spectrum Celebrity Joined: 4/16/04 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 176	Posted: 10/24/08 at 11:53am
	Harbor Freight Tools (available online or mail order if not near you) usually has a circular saw on sale in the $25 - $40 range. They are usually made by Chicago Electric or Skil so they're not great but fairly reliable and FAR better than a jig saw for ripping plywood. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=6188 And NO, I don't have any connections with Harbor Freight. They just have a good array of inexpensive tools.
	Growing old is mandatory. Growing up is optional.
	IP Logged

Topper Celebrity Joined: 1/27/05 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 543	Posted: 10/24/08 at 3:52pm
	I agree investing in a circular saw would be better (and faster), but the above bracing method works just as well for that tool also. As for filling in the holes, it's entirely up to you. Especially for a set piece that will only be viewed from a distance. Personally, I'm a big fan of painter's caulk because it's fast, cheap and cleans up easily.
	"None of us really grow up. All we ever do is learn how to behave in public." -- Keith Johnstone
	IP Logged

thrillwill Player Joined: 10/21/08 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 20	Posted: 10/27/08 at 1:01pm
	Hey all - just wanted to post an update on the quest for a straight cut... Yes a circular saw in the arsenal would be very nice. Especially one with a lazer sight - My new powered mitre box has one and I love it. But for this conversation I think a circular saw would just be the same mistake only faster. The nephew and I tried Topper's trick with screwing the brace down every 16" but sadly hit the same snag - the saw worked it's way under the brace. This time though the brace had enough force to stop the saw in its tracks which let me know my line was drifting. I think this weekend we'll try it again but reduce the gap to 10" per screw and see if that does the trick. Thanks for all your help and suggestions everybody - and keep'em coming :) Will.
	Will Leamon http://www.classiccityarts.com
	IP Logged

Topper Celebrity Joined: 1/27/05 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 543	Posted: 10/27/08 at 3:29pm
	Sorry to hear about the snag. I forgot to ask what thickness of plywood you were using. If it's thinner than 1/2 inch, then yes you should space the screws closer together. My bad.
	"None of us really grow up. All we ever do is learn how to behave in public." -- Keith Johnstone
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flyweed Walk-On Joined: 10/27/08 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 6	Posted: 11/03/08 at 11:24pm
	AAAHHHH...someone said harbor freight and Chicago Electric. stay away from both. Cheap, shoddily made, garbage. If you are going to buy tools you want to last, buy good ones.....in this case you DO get what you pay for. Dan
	IP Logged