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Kim L.
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Quote Kim L. Replybullet Topic: Stair question
    Posted: 1/16/11 at 3:55pm
I have to build 6 sets of stairs that I can move to various positions on stage during our show. The stairs are only 2 or 3 steps high (and 36" or 48" wide). I'm no construction guru...just muddling my way through. I plan to purchase pre-cut stringers from Home Depot and construct a base/support for it, then cover the sides with cardboard (budget conscious!). My husband says I can build the supports out of 1 x 4's. Is that adequate? How thin of a stair tread can I put on the steps? I was thinking 3/4" plywood or OSB but Home Depot told me they sell stair treads that are 1 1/4" thick. That seems like overkill since I don't need these stairs to last for 50 years.
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JoeMc
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Quote JoeMc Replybullet Posted: 1/16/11 at 7:45pm

You have had good advise thus far, because of the nature of steps their use & the abuse that they have must withstand.

Even as rostra treads they must be stable to be stepped on without any side to side movement & bending or bouncing of the treads.

There are a few good hints & further clues on a previous topic;-  http://www.communitytheater.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4641&KW=stairs 

along with a 'staircase construction calculator.
Also to give more stability & durabilty I'd use ply rather than cardboard
on the sides.




Edited by JoeMc - 1/16/11 at 7:52pm
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Quote bmiller025 Replybullet Posted: 1/17/11 at 2:28pm
I think you can do better than using the Home Depot stringers. I would buy a sheet of 3/4" plywood, and some 1x4s for relatively short-length stairs. I have linked to a rough drawing of something that I am building right now. A span of more than two feet likely needs a center support, connecting the front and rear supports for each tread. so your 36 to 48" width should need at least one support.

http://www.brianmiller.biz/Stair Unit.jpg

I always use Home Depot style stringers for stair units that are more than three or four steps, but for such small pieces that need to be moved around, I think this approach will be more than suitable for your needs. Make it square and true, glue all the pieces together, and you won't have any trouble with it.



Edited by bmiller025 - 1/18/11 at 1:01pm
http://www.brianmiller.biz/BrianDesign.htm
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dboris
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Quote dboris Replybullet Posted: 1/17/11 at 2:29pm

1x4s would not be strong enough for the supports, I would go with 2x4s which will probably cost you less anyway.

As for the treads you should probably go with the 1 1/4" thick ones. You could use 3/4" plywood (don't use OSB), but with a 3' to 4' wide stair you would need some other form of support under the treads, like a third stringer in the middle.
 
 
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Quote David McCall Replybullet Posted: 1/17/11 at 7:29pm

That design looks like it would work. I have some that I built that are over complicated, but they are built out of 1"x2"s and MDF, just because that was what was on hand the day I built them. They are very solid and sturdy. The idea that scenic elements need to be as heavy as a house is crazy. It may sometimes be cheaper and easier to build things that way, but you won't be happy when it comes time to move it around.

The key is quality construction and good materials. Using thinner materials requires pre-drilling for the screws and gluing really helps. An alternative to screws and pre-drilling would be to use staples.

An advantage to building scenery using 2x4s and heavy stringers and treads is that you can be really sloppy with your construction and it will still probably hold up just fine. It is also a bit cheaper to build with low quality materials.

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Quote dboris Replybullet Posted: 1/18/11 at 12:24pm
Originally posted by David McCall

The key is quality construction and good materials. Using thinner materials requires pre-drilling for the screws and gluing really helps. An alternative to screws and pre-drilling would be to use staples.

 
Some of the nicest stair units I have used were made of 3/4 plywood for the stringers, treads and risers all glued and stapled together. Made for a really sturdy and light piece, but you need to put in the extra effort when building them.
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Quote pdavis69 Replybullet Posted: 1/18/11 at 12:39pm
As I work with a group of actors, many of which top out at over 250 lbs, I refuse to use anything less than 2X in staris. 
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Quote JoeMc Replybullet Posted: 1/18/11 at 7:38pm
One thing to consider is the stretcher at the base of rear open end, to brace the sides together & stop the treads sides splaying out under weight.
[western] Gondawandaland
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Kim L.
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Quote Kim L. Replybullet Posted: 1/23/11 at 7:22pm
Hi Brian Miller,

Can you repost the internet address for the stair design you posted about? When I plug in the address you listed, it says the link is broken. I remember trying to edit the address you provided and was able to see the design. But, now I can't remember what I did and can't get back to it.

Thanks!!
Kim
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Spectrum
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Quote Spectrum Replybullet Posted: 1/23/11 at 7:49pm
Kim L.: His link seems to work if you copy/paste it to your address bar and hit enter, but for your convenience, I'll try to repost it so you can just click on it here.
 
 
The space between Stair and Unit breaks the link.  Oooops!
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