Set Design and Construction: Stair question

Print Page | Close Window

Stair question

Printed From: Community Theater Green Room
Category: Producing Theater
Forum Name: Set Design and Construction
Forum Discription: Post your questions or suggestions about designing or building a set here.
URL: http://www.communitytheater.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4923
Printed Date: 11/24/24 at 1:10am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 8.05 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Stair question

Posted By: Kim L.
Subject: Stair question
Date Posted: 1/16/11 at 3:55pm

I have to build 6 sets of stairs that I can move to various positions on stage during our show. The stairs are only 2 or 3 steps high (and 36" or 48" wide). I'm no construction guru...just muddling my way through. I plan to purchase pre-cut stringers from Home Depot and construct a base/support for it, then cover the sides with cardboard (budget conscious!). My husband says I can build the supports out of 1 x 4's. Is that adequate? How thin of a stair tread can I put on the steps? I was thinking 3/4" plywood or OSB but Home Depot told me they sell stair treads that are 1 1/4" thick. That seems like overkill since I don't need these stairs to last for 50 years.

-------------
Kim

Replies:

Posted By: JoeMc
Date Posted: 1/16/11 at 7:45pm

You have had good advise thus far, because of the nature of steps their use & the abuse that they have must withstand.

Even as rostra treads they must be stable to be stepped on without any side to side movement & bending or bouncing of the treads.

There are a few good hints & further clues on a previous topic;- http://www.communitytheater.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4641&KW=stairs - http://www.communitytheater.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4641&KW=stairs

along with a 'staircase construction calculator.

http://www.blocklayer.com/stairs/stairseng.aspx - Stair Calculator - Layout Stair Stringer Headroom Rise Run Baluster

Also to give more stability & durabilty I'd use ply rather than cardboard
on the sides.

-------------
[western] Gondawandaland
"Hear the light & see the sound!
TOI TOI CHOOKAS
{may you always play to a full house!}

Posted By: bmiller025
Date Posted: 1/17/11 at 2:28pm

I think you can do better than using the Home Depot stringers. I would buy a sheet of 3/4" plywood, and some 1x4s for relatively short-length stairs. I have linked to a rough drawing of something that I am building right now. A span of more than two feet likely needs a center support, connecting the front and rear supports for each tread. so your 36 to 48" width should need at least one support.

http://www.brianmiller.biz/Stair Unit.jpg

I always use Home Depot style stringers for stair units that are more than three or four steps, but for such small pieces that need to be moved around, I think this approach will be more than suitable for your needs. Make it square and true, glue all the pieces together, and you won't have any trouble with it.

-------------
http://www.brianmiller.biz/BrianDesign.htm

Posted By: dboris
Date Posted: 1/17/11 at 2:29pm

1x4s would not be strong enough for the supports, I would go with 2x4s which will probably cost you less anyway.

As for the treads you should probably go with the 1 1/4" thick ones. You could use 3/4" plywood (don't use OSB), but with a 3' to 4' wide stair you would need some other form of support under the treads, like a third stringer in the middle.

Posted By: David McCall
Date Posted: 1/17/11 at 7:29pm

That design looks like it would work. I have some that I built that are over complicated, but they are built out of 1"x2"s and MDF, just because that was what was on hand the day I built them. They are very solid and sturdy. The idea that scenic elements need to be as heavy as a house is crazy. It may sometimes be cheaper and easier to build things that way, but you won't be happy when it comes time to move it around.

The key is quality construction and good materials. Using thinner materials requires pre-drilling for the screws and gluing really helps. An alternative to screws and pre-drilling would be to use staples.

An advantage to building scenery using 2x4s and heavy stringers and treads is that you can be really sloppy with your construction and it will still probably hold up just fine. It is also a bit cheaper to build with low quality materials.

-------------
David M

Posted By: dboris
Date Posted: 1/18/11 at 12:24pm

Originally posted by David McCall

Some of the nicest stair units I have used were made of 3/4 plywood for the stringers, treads and risers all glued and stapled together. Made for a really sturdy and light piece, but you need to put in the extra effort when building them.

Posted By: pdavis69
Date Posted: 1/18/11 at 12:39pm

As I work with a group of actors, many of which top out at over 250 lbs, I refuse to use anything less than 2X in staris.

-------------
Patrick L. Davis
Fort Findlay Playhouse

Posted By: JoeMc
Date Posted: 1/18/11 at 7:38pm

One thing to consider is the stretcher at the base of rear open end, to brace the sides together & stop the treads sides splaying out under weight.

-------------
[western] Gondawandaland
"Hear the light & see the sound!
TOI TOI CHOOKAS
{may you always play to a full house!}

Posted By: Kim L.
Date Posted: 1/23/11 at 7:22pm

Hi Brian Miller,

Can you repost the internet address for the stair design you posted about? When I plug in the address you listed, it says the link is broken. I remember trying to edit the address you provided and was able to see the design. But, now I can't remember what I did and can't get back to it.

Thanks!!

-------------
Kim

Posted By: Spectrum
Date Posted: 1/23/11 at 7:49pm

Kim L.: His link seems to work if you copy/paste it to your address bar and hit enter, but for your convenience, I'll try to repost it so you can just click on it here.

http://www.brianmiller.biz/Stair%20Unit.jpg - http://www.brianmiller.biz/Stair Unit.jpg

The space between Stair and Unit breaks the link. Oooops!

-------------
Growing old is mandatory. Growing up is optional.

Posted By: Kim L.
Date Posted: 1/23/11 at 7:54pm

Thanks! I feel a little stupid that I couldn't figure that out. :)

-------------
Kim

Posted By: bmiller025
Date Posted: 1/25/11 at 11:18pm

I apologize for failing to keep up with this thread! I completely agree with Joe about bracing the bottom back of the stair unit. My lapse in judgement.

I also agree about using 2x4s instead of 1x4. My initial reason for using 1x was to minimize weight as much as possible. These days, I keep running 2x4s through my table saw to rip them down to approximate 1x4 size for framing flats. They end up costing a little more than a dollar apiece, instead of close to five for an actual 1x4. Tricky work, but it can be done.

The stair units that I am building will be a little different than in my drawing now. They will only be 24" across, and will be made completely from 3/4" plywood. I have cut full size pieces for the facing of each step, as well as a full length back to the stair unit. I will also rip down 2x4s to 2x2s, to make railings for the stair units.

-------------
http://www.brianmiller.biz/BrianDesign.htm