Community Theater Green Room Discussion Board: Set-Build tomorrow. Need advice

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   Hello Again,

I am having my set-build tomorrow and have some last minute questions:

1.  Yesterday, my husband built 1 out of 8 flats we are building, as a dry run.  (I will have my high school students build the rest.)  My husband felt it did not make a different whether the rails were longer than the toggles or not.  So, he constructed the flats with all rails and toggles on the inside of the stiles (if I'm explaining right).  All the drawings I have seen have the rails longer than the toggles and laying on top of the stiles (not inside of them).  Does this make a difference with how sturdy these things are?  I would like to know so I can make the rest of the flats the way they are supposed to be.

2.  I have decided to make soft flats b/c they are cheaper and my budget does not allow hard at this point.  My set will be a permanent box set depicting a living room.  How do I go about dressing the "living room" with pictures on the walls and such?  Do I have to paint everything on?  I was hoping to use some sconces near the fireplace but I think I am out of luck now with soft flats.  Any advice?

3.  Our previous tech. director built 8 ft. flats as the beginning of our stock flats.  I really can't afford to start from ground zero and start an entire new stock with 10ft. flats or higher.  Will it look ridiculous that we use 8ft. flats?  Should I beg for a larger budget to build up taller flats?

Thanks so much for the advice!

Kim

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Kim L. Star Joined: 2/03/07 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 86	Topic: Set-Build tomorrow. Need advice Posted: 9/09/07 at 7:42am
	Hello Again, I am having my set-build tomorrow and have some last minute questions: 1. Yesterday, my husband built 1 out of 8 flats we are building, as a dry run. (I will have my high school students build the rest.) My husband felt it did not make a different whether the rails were longer than the toggles or not. So, he constructed the flats with all rails and toggles on the inside of the stiles (if I'm explaining right). All the drawings I have seen have the rails longer than the toggles and laying on top of the stiles (not inside of them). Does this make a difference with how sturdy these things are? I would like to know so I can make the rest of the flats the way they are supposed to be. 2. I have decided to make soft flats b/c they are cheaper and my budget does not allow hard at this point. My set will be a permanent box set depicting a living room. How do I go about dressing the "living room" with pictures on the walls and such? Do I have to paint everything on? I was hoping to use some sconces near the fireplace but I think I am out of luck now with soft flats. Any advice? 3. Our previous tech. director built 8 ft. flats as the beginning of our stock flats. I really can't afford to start from ground zero and start an entire new stock with 10ft. flats or higher. Will it look ridiculous that we use 8ft. flats? Should I beg for a larger budget to build up taller flats? Thanks so much for the advice! Kim
	Kim

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DnoMan Walk-On Joined: 7/01/06 Online Status: Offline Posts: 0	Posted: 9/09/07 at 11:47am
	I am not sure about # 1? About # 2, You could build height specific jacks and add a 4x4 block to the top of the jack. Place them where you need to screw into for your sconces and then you can run your power down the side of the jack. Make sure you use LOTS of sandbags for stability. Last but not least # 3. We have added caps to the top off our different size flats. Cover the skin with what you can depending on the use you have for it. It is usually tape and paint,paint,paint. The best is a complete cover like wallpaper or siding if some sort. Hope it helps
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Gaafa Celebrity Joined: 3/21/04 Location: Australia Online Status: Offline Posts: 1181	Posted: 9/09/07 at 12:19pm
	1. Either way I have seen both types produced & they work! I prefer the base rail being longer, as the stiles after a while can jam on the deck, with sliding them about. This can weaken the corner joints. Also with the top rail, if you Fly them, with the fly droppers attached to the base rail, it is a compression lift from the base. But I doubt you need or will ever get into flying out flats. Using corner gussets & keystones on the joints, is what strengthens the frames. 2. To hang pictures & things, you can use fishing line or secure offcut ply or board, to rear of the flat frame. Which is strong enough to hold sconces & the like. 3. With the 8' flats you have in stock, you can fill & patch, as a Header with a strip of ply or cheap MDF board, making them up to 10' flats. You can use them as the side flats & a good idea is to run a perspective line, blackening off the tops of the flats. To suit the Boarder masking sight lines & even off all the flats. when your attaching the soft skin unbleached fabric [calico/muslin] to the flat frames. Mix up a very milky wood [PVC] white glue in water. Paint it on the surface of the frame, Pull the fabric taught & attach to the frame. Then mix up hot water wallpaper size, applying hot is the best, but keeping it hot may cause a lot of safety problems with the students. Using the size is a cheaper way to shrink the raw unbleached fabric, than using watered down plastic [latex or emulsion] paint. It will shrink & tighten the fabric, like a drum, while drying. You will be surprised the amount of shrinkage that takes place.
	Joe Western Gondawandaland turn right @ Perth. Hear the light & see the sound. Toi Toi Toi Chookas {{"chook [chicken] it is"} May you always play to a full house}
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