1. Either way I have seen both types produced & they work!
I prefer the base rail being longer, as the stiles after a while can jam on
the deck, with sliding them about. This can weaken the corner joints.
Also with the top rail, if you Fly them, with the fly droppers attached to
the base rail, it is a compression lift from the base. But I doubt you need or
will ever get into flying out flats.
Using corner gussets & keystones on the joints, is what strengthens the
frames.
2. To hang pictures & things, you can use fishing line or secure offcut
ply or board, to rear of the flat frame. Which is strong enough to hold sconces
& the like.
3. With the 8' flats you have in stock, you can fill & patch, as a
Header with a strip of ply or cheap MDF board, making them up to 10'
flats.
You can use them as the side flats & a good idea is to run a
perspective line, blackening off the tops of the flats. To suit the Boarder
masking sight lines & even off all the flats.
when your attaching the soft skin unbleached fabric [calico/muslin] to the
flat frames. Mix up a very milky wood [PVC] white glue in water. Paint it on the
surface of the frame, Pull the fabric taught & attach to the frame. Then mix
up hot water wallpaper size, applying hot is the best, but keeping it hot may cause
a lot of safety problems with the students. Using the size is a cheaper way to
shrink the raw unbleached fabric, than using watered down plastic [latex or
emulsion] paint. It will shrink & tighten the fabric, like a drum, while
drying. You will be surprised the amount of shrinkage that takes place.
------------- Joe
Western Gondawandaland
turn right @ Perth.
Hear the light & see the sound.
Toi Toi Toi Chookas {{"chook [chicken] it is"}
May you always play
to a full house}
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