BACKDROP HELP
Printed From: Community Theater Green Room
Category: Producing Theater
Forum Name: Set Design and Construction
Forum Discription: Post your questions or suggestions about designing or building a set here.
URL: http://www.communitytheater.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2129
Printed Date: 11/23/24 at 5:55pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 8.05 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: BACKDROP HELP
Posted By: summer
Subject: BACKDROP HELP
Date Posted: 11/15/06 at 3:51pm
I love this site it is so helpful but I have one question I am hoping someone can answer. I am trying to create a backdrop without using cloth. I want to use like a foam type board and I need it to stand up. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions on how I can do this. I need the backdrop to be 10X10.
Thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: suzecue1
Date Posted: 11/15/06 at 6:57pm
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I have used the foam board before. I believe it is called TYPAR and is used for home insulation. It comes in 4 x 8 sheets. You can buy it at Home depot, Menards, etc. It is not expensive. It is very lightwieght, can be cut with a razorblade, you can paint it. Only one negative thing about it. It breaks very easy, so if you can attach it to a frame, or permanently on a back wall (for the whole show) it will be fine. But if it is going to be moved on and off alot, it will probably not last long. You will find yourself tapeing and repairing, etc. Good luck!
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Sue
*****
So many hats.....so few heads!
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Posted By: TimW
Date Posted: 11/16/06 at 8:40am
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The foam board woorks good for the many things I have used it for. Not to try to change your mind about the material for your drop, but I believe you can get fabric in 60 inch widths (5 feet). If this will be a drop you might use over, get 2 lenghts at 4 yards (12 feet) and have them sewn together. You can make a square frame to secure it on then roll it up when you are done.
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Posted By: Gaafa
Date Posted: 11/16/06 at 10:19pm
I see the TV studios are using the sandwiched foam boards as flats
these days, Which would have to be better than the cardboard &
sticky tape, they used in my day.
Being very old [ancient]. I still prefer good old calico/muslin & pine frame flats.
TV flats work & they are easy to produce, but as suggested are
susceptible to damage & also become difficult to repair
effectively, with constant reuse.
But that?s another topic which has been raised here a few times.
However if you use hard flats, you can always skin over them with
unbleached calico to give a Jesso effect & have the best of both
worlds, making the skin surface easier to repair & with foam board
it would reduce structural damage from scene movements.
In this case I would still use unbleached calico being raw cotton
fibre, after being wet it will shrink & really tighten up over the
board surface.
With the frame you could just butt joint & even use the gang nail
joining plates. Rather than just relying on gluing the frame to the
boards.
as it seems your only planning a Gaff wall of flats, bracing is still
needed, as you would possibly use about 3 flats. Adjustable stage
braces or the French bracing is easier to make up. Also look at a drop
on ledger rail brace, 10? in length.
With the French brace & joining the flats together. Removable drop
in pin butt hinges are a good option. If they are difficult to find,
stick to a standard off the shelf butt hinge available.
It is better to get the type with an even number of pin captivation
bearing holders, 4 is great, but 5, with 2 on one half & 3 on the
other can be a pain.
Just grind off one end of the pin & remove it leaving the hinge in
two halves. Buy a length of steel rod the same diameter, cut it into
sizes at least double the length of the pin size. The extra length will
give enough rod to roll/bend into a finger grip at the end of the pin.
Grind & chamfer the insert end of the rod, to make it easy to
insert the pin. Use some white cord [easier to see in the dark] tied to
the rolled finger grip end & secure the cord at the hinge half on
the flats side rail. This way there is always 2 for each hinge &
there is a spare on hand to drop in place.
You can make up a template with half hinges on just a spare bit of
timber, so the hinge halves will dovetail together the same on each
side rail of the flats.
When fitting the French braces in place use the same system. Leaving
the hinge halves, for future fit up of the braces, with the pins it is
easier to attach them to the braces, the same with rostra, treads or
set pieces.
Just tec screw the halves on as the screws can loosen to give a bit of wiggle room when bumping in/out.
However with soft flats I prefer to use a sash cord & cleats to
tighten them together. Which makes it much easier with just a flick of
the wrist to serpentine lace them up, especial for 18 ? or higher
flats. It is also quicker to bump out just to untie the sash cord,
allowing the flats to fall & float down on a cushion of air, before
they actually hit the stage deck.
Although on bumping in a season standing set, I use the sash to place the flats & the drop pin hinges as well!
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Joe
Western Gondawandaland
turn right @ Perth.
Hear the light & see the sound.
Toi Toi Toi Chookas {{"chook [chicken] it is"}
May you always play
to a full house}
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Posted By: Joan54
Date Posted: 12/12/06 at 1:36pm
Well.....first off - why don't you want to use fabric? It's been in use for hundreds of years for a reason. But whatever....go to a big lumberyard...not a home depot type store....a real building materials only place. Ask for a type of insulation that is tongue and groove. This means that one side of the sheet will have a groove that the other side's tongue will fit in. You can buy as many sheets as you want and put them together. I don't think you will find it ten feet tall...probably only eight and I have only seen it come in pink or blue. It is used to insulate foundation walls and comes several widths but you may find it a bit more expensive than you want.....Now making it stand up is the tricky part. The thicker the foam the more rigid it will be. I wouldn't buy anything less than 3" thick. You will probably have to put a plywood sheet behing it ( plywood is available in 10' lengths) and then brace it in any number of different ways depending on your stage. This foam can be painted, cut, melted and glued together so you could get some intesting 3-d effects if you experimented. Please be careful....like most building materials this one is toxic and flammable. Wear a respirator when sanding it and for pete's sake don't light it on fire.
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"behind a thin wall of logic panic is waiting to stampede"
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Posted By: Nanette
Date Posted: 12/13/06 at 8:35am
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In the past we've used the foam-type board and, by creating a "sandwich" of sorts, easily made it stand. Frame out the foam, first. Then, screw shims (3 on either side) perpendicular to the foam and attach your second sheet of framed-out foam to the other end of the shim. You create a sandwich of air between the foam panals. It's really easy for a teenager to step into the sandwich, pick it up, and turn it around to change the scene to the other side. By removing the shims, you can store these flat.
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In a world of margarine, be butter!
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