Community Theater Green Room Discussion Board: Designing Techniques for Film?

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WWII Filmmaker
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Topic: Designing Techniques for Film?
Posted: 1/07/10 at 7:29pm

Hi Gang

I may have the wrong place?

Was wondering if one could ask questions about film set construction?

Thanx
Mike

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Gaafa
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Posted: 1/07/10 at 8:06pm

G'day Mike!

There are a few here who have worked on both sides of the fence, that I'm sure would certainly help where they can mate!

Remembering for the most part our punters have a fairly static sight line focal piont. While the Flicks are far more versitile & not time dependant on scene changes.

I'll undoubtably hoy'n my 4 zaks [2 Bob] for what it's worth?

Chookas Mike

Joe
Western Gondawandaland
turn right @ Perth.
Hear the light & see the sound.
Toi Toi Toi Chookas {{"chook [chicken] it is"}
May you always play
to a full house}

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David McCall
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Posted: 1/07/10 at 8:41pm

It is very similar to theatrical scenery. Most things are 3 dimensional and have hard surfaces as opposed to muslin based flats, but most people in theater have given up on muslin and painted perspective details too. A lot of the detail has to be more precise than for traditional theater, because you never know how close the camera will get. They also use a lot of digitally produced backgrounds and matt paintings.

David M

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Gaafa
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Posted: 1/07/10 at 9:18pm

Originally posted by David McCall

, but most people in theater have given up on muslin and painted perspective details too. .

There is a swing back to the traditional soft [calico (muslin)] theatre flats here, rather than the hard studio type flats - they are starting to dicover the virtues of them again. But that's all another story!

Joe
Western Gondawandaland
turn right @ Perth.
Hear the light & see the sound.
Toi Toi Toi Chookas {{"chook [chicken] it is"}
May you always play
to a full house}

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WWII Filmmaker
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Posted: 1/07/10 at 9:31pm

Hi everyone and thanx for responding. Wink

Actually my questions are regarding some very basic techniques one would use to help 'age' things a little, or create cigarette smoke stains etc.

I'm 62, and very handy with building - built a recording studio in my basement.

To cut to the quick, how bout I post a few photos of what I'm trying to create? And I can ask specific questions.

Let me get a few things together.

Meanwhile you guys can take a look at a 3 minute trailer;
http://vimeo.com/7340608

Be back
Thank you
Mike

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Mr. Lowell
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Posted: 1/08/10 at 9:50am

Looks really good Mike.

In addition to being a theatrical scenery/lighting designer, I am also a life-long "WWII tank buff". I helped build a 1/16th scale diorama of a WWII battlefield at the local tank museum that is 80 feet wide! We recreate tank battles there, using high-tech radio control tanks with laser tag!

You can watch clips of our battles at: http://www.youtube.com/user/heatarmor

Hopefully I will be able to help you with some scene painting questions. Between model building and set design I have had to create a lot of illusions over the years. I've had to come up with simple tricks on a budget.

Welcome to the forum! -Dana

Mr. Lowell,
Lighting/Set Designer & Tech Director,
for the Linda Sloan Theatre,
in the Davison Center for the Arts,
at Greensboro Day School

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WWII Filmmaker
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Posted: 1/08/10 at 10:11am

Hi Dana
Hi Others

Back again - if you viewed the 3 minute trailer above, you'll see I've been working on a WWII Documentary.

There is a scene I'd like to create in my tiny basement studio, (nothing elaborate), in which Axis Sally is giving one of her propaganda speeches.

Old style acoustic tiles are no where to be found. I believe the set designers may have simulated that with painted pegboard. Aside from obvious good building/painting practices which I am more than capable, can you give some ideas of how to create joints/seams? See the screen shots.

http://www.locationstudio.net/GreenRoomScreen.jpg

http://www.locationstudio.net/AlexandraMariaLara.jpg

I can use an off-white paint on the pegboard, and explore possibilties of thin wood strips to create joints etc. The only area I'm weak on is
how to get the pegboard/acoustic wall tiles to appear 'aged'.

*Remember, I've been researching this WWII topic for 4 years. Wink

*Dana I'd like to get in contact with you Tongue

Thanx
Be Back
Mike

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Mr. Lowell
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Posted: 1/08/10 at 11:28am

If I were texturing this material, I would make a wash with very watery Raw Sienna scenepaint and brush it on very thinly. This would give that sepia tone haze while taking some of the glare out of the white. But I have found that painting pegboard is a pain because each hole traps a little paint and it drools down. Maybe a spray gun could be used to lightly mist some shadowy areas, edges, and worn places to break up the solid white.

The effect I would go for is cigarette smoke, as you say, and some random areas of wartime wear. But I would not be too concerned about aging it because, while the battle was 70 years ago, the German radio studio would have been newly set up during occupation.

(For open spaces, such as to the left of the Goebbels picture in your example, I might also put a small propanda poster to break it up...yet not get too cluttered...or time permitting, make cover of a German cultural magazine featuring your Axis Sally).

By the way, I like your German 88mm cannon! Too bad there's no way to simulate recoil though...

Mr. Lowell,
Lighting/Set Designer & Tech Director,
for the Linda Sloan Theatre,
in the Davison Center for the Arts,
at Greensboro Day School

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WWII Filmmaker
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Posted: 1/08/10 at 8:42pm

Hey Mr. Lowell Clap

Finally had time to look at your stuff on U Tube - Amazing! Well Done, (love working models).

Going thru your suggestions/comments, I think I'm beginning to understand 'Texturing';

This Pegboard which needs to be painted, should have a slight texture to the finish of the paint - correct? A little grain/sand/rough flat finish to simulate a cellulose material, (the original old acoustic tile). But the important thing is a FLAT finish.

Yes I see that smearing on paint will be tedious as the paint could drip into the holes. Perhaps I can add paint ever-so sparingly to the brush, waiting for each coat to dry. Don't think I can spray this time of year outside, (cold winter). Was going to paint it in my studio, no spraying inside.

True about not being too concerned about 'aging' (agreed)

About creating the appearance of joints/seams to the tiles; after thinking about this, it will be very difficult for me to create shadows/depth by painting. Therefore why don't I just cut 4 separate pieces out of a 4x8 sheet of pegboard, and mount them on a 1"x2" frame, leaving a small gap between each panel?

Due to a tiny working area, this fake wall, will be limited to one panel of approx 4x8. The rest of the wall areas (in a small corner), will be covered with curtains.

BTW, I have a graphics guy working on a 3D Model for recoil of both the 88, and a 105MM.

I can provide additional photos of the area, but I can tell you it's going to be tight/small. And therefore it's probably important that the small piece of wall look realistic as it will be close to camera range.

Thanx Mr. Lowell
More to come

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Topper
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Posted: 1/11/10 at 10:00am

If you cut your panels with a slight bevel on the edges, you can butt them together and create the seam. Or, you can router each piece -- but that would be time-consuming.

"None of us really grow up. All we ever do is learn how to behave in public." -- Keith Johnstone

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