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Mama M
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bullet Topic: multi-sided flats
    Posted: 1/02/07 at 4:23pm
Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to build multi-sided flats? We are looking at building either 3 or 4 sided panels and would like to have them be able to turn easily for scene changes. We would also like to be able to store them flat afterwards.
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TimW
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bullet Posted: 1/02/07 at 11:06pm
This setup has been in my head for awhile, but I haven't been able to try it out!
 
A three sided would work best. Just remember that the bigger you make them, the less room you will have behind the set. I would build all of the flats with loose pin hinges on the side so they can be interchanged. Build a jig so the hinges line up on each flat. Then build 2 triangles, preferably out of 1/2 inch plywood, one for the base and one for support ( to be placed about 2 to 4 feet above the base). These will end up inside the flats. If you can anchor into the floor, place a pipe flange and secure it. Thread a pipe into this flange. Make sure the pipe is high enough ( up to 4 feet should work) and that you cut a hole in the triangles just a little bigger than the pipe. From this point, I would place the base triangle over the pipe ( you could put casters on the bottom if you want) then place the support triangle on the pipe. When you anchor the first flat to the triangles, you can set the height of the support triangle then. Anchor the second flat the same way you did the first. The third flat would just be supported by the first two by the hinges. This is why you want the hinges to be uniform on their placement. From here, just place the next triangle by the first and repeat.
 
I hope this wasn't to lengthy but informative enough.
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Mama M
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bullet Posted: 1/03/07 at 12:12am
Tim, Thank you so much for all of the information .... and it wasn't too lengthy. However, I do have one question ... how wide would you suggest that each panel be in order to be effective?
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suzecue1
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bullet Posted: 1/03/07 at 9:01am
We made an attempt at multi-sided flats, seemed like a great idea at the time, but found that the rake of the stage is too deep. When you turned the piece it tends to want to tip over.
 
So, something that we tried for one of our last shows is building a platform the length of the back wall of the stage.  It stays on the stage for the whole show. Three feet high, with stairs on each end, and two sets of railings. One high on the back wall of the stage and one at the front of the platform, in the middle between the stairs.  It gets the actors on different levels, which is a great thing for blocking the show, and it gives you the ability to change a scene by hanging a sheet of luan over the top railing and the middle railing with hooks.  The scenes can easily (and quickly) be changed, you don't need a lot of storage room in the wings for the extra sheets of luan, and it is reusable.
 
If you are interested - PM me and I will send you a couple of photos.
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TimW
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bullet Posted: 1/03/07 at 10:54pm
I wouldn't make each panel over 36 inches wide. The thing to remember is that on a three sided flat, if 1 panel is 2 feet wide, you have basically a 6 foot flat ( 3 panels at 2 ft). So the weight of a triangle flat system with 3 panels 2 feet wide will weigh as much ( if not a little more ) than a 6 foot flat. Also, you will have a seam at each place the triangle connect. 
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Gaafa
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bullet Posted: 1/04/07 at 10:32pm
As suggested by Tim a revolving Periaktoi flat unit, usually a 3 flat system also used in multiple Periaktos scene systems. However double & quad sided units were used by the ancient Greeks & even in Chinese theatre.
As mentioned a flat stage deck makes it much easier to work the system.
I have made a few Peri or Medicci flats, as legs or a multi backing system on a pulley drive. Much the same as the revolving advertising periaktos used around the place.
The easiest is the single double side flat with a pivoting central spigot on the deck.
The TV flats being rigid are better, although it works just as well using the soft skin flats.
The split loose pin hinges make it easier for storage & the use of single flats.
If the removable pin hinges are not readily available off the shelf, it is easy to make up your own.
Grab almost any butt hinge & grind off the pins captivating head, separating the to halves. I find the square butt hinges are better as the rolled pin retainers are equal on both halves, however any type ill do.
Get some steel rod the same diameter as the pin & add about 2" to the length of the pin size,  to roll bend one end as a finger pull to assist in removing & inserting the  pin.
If just a deck spigot is used to revolve
with the flats on the floor. Using old carpet strips tacked, glued or stapled upside down onto the bottom rail of the flat works as  well as castors. Therefore there is no need for a skirt to hide the castors.
 
 
      Joe
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Mama M
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bullet Posted: 1/05/07 at 12:03am
Thank you each and every one of you for all of the helpful suggestions. I certainly appreciate it.

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