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puck
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bullet Posted: 9/20/06 at 10:59pm
My experience with the expanding foam in trying to make stones, is that it has the tendency to look really extruded, and even dog turds.

IMHO, I love painting faux bricks, and it works great, but only if that highly theatrical style is consistant with the rest of the design. 

It also depends on what KIND of stones you're making.  There's field stones, flag stones, red brick, flat stone. 

I've only used the following formula for the natrual ones, like the flag, field or flat stones. 

If it's realisim you're aiming for, then  you can get some sheets of that blue foam insulation stuff, and cut stone shapes from that. 

If you paint it just like that, it looks like painted styro, lame, I know.  And then it looks like fake stones at the community theatre.

One technique that's kinda fun is to sculpt the blue foam stones with a knife a little.  Round the edges, make some nicks and cranies, sandpaper helps in the rounding / finishing.   You probably don't want to spray paint it because it'll melt. After the weathering is done, you can coat the styro in strips of musin and use white paint as a binder.  After that drys, you can go in with low tone, mid tones, and highlights, a spattering of the low tone color will give a bit of  coolness to it.  I usually lay them all out at once and do the spattering that way.  You could even if you wanted do a light spattering of the highlight color as well.   The muslin also makes them a little more durable.

Since they'll be placed on luan, a good industrial hot glue gun would work, and it can be easily scraped off!


That swift as quicksilver it courses through/The natural gates and alleys of the body,/And with a sudden vigor it doth posset/and curd,like eager droppings into milk,/The thin and wholesome blood.
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grovetx
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bullet Posted: 10/05/06 at 1:16pm
I built a set that was like an archaelogical dig.  We used the styrofoam insulation "boards" that you get from your local hardware store.  We first primed the material with paint and a little sand.  Then we made the lines like bricks in them by using a hot glue gun and melted them.  Finally we used a sponge technique to put the proper color with a watered down paint solution.  You can just adjust the depth of color by wiping it off in sections to make it look more real.
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bullet Posted: 10/25/06 at 2:03pm
In scrounging through a stack of the dreaded stock scenery, I encoutered 5 4'x8' sheets of plywood that had bricks carved into them. 

And so I inquired about these, because they looked fabulous; someone was bound to know what they were all about... or how they were made because community theatres almost always have a long memory about things.

And this old man told me, he was there the day they were made.  Someone marked out a grid onto sheets of plywood, and then routed the 'mortar' out, leaving, raised rectangles that looked like brick, not 2 feet away.  Apparently the sawdust piles were tremedous, and the old man seemed to think that these piles should have won some sort of award...he probably would have preserved them for posterity if he could have. 

At any rate, while time consuming, its yet more e plurabis unim of ways to make faux bricks. 
That swift as quicksilver it courses through/The natural gates and alleys of the body,/And with a sudden vigor it doth posset/and curd,like eager droppings into milk,/The thin and wholesome blood.
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reds
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bullet Posted: 10/28/06 at 9:34am
To create inexpensive bricks and stones you need a roll of brown paper (or paper bags) and cardboard(from boxes).  Cut the cardboard into the shape you want, the cut the paper a little larger.  Crumple up the brown paper (for texture), loosly wrap around the carboard and staple it around the edge.  You can paint it before or after you staple it to the wall.  The crumpling and wrapping gives it the 3-D look, and I just pop them off after I'm done, and stack them in boxes for future use.  It's easy for any crew member to make, is lightweight, is reusable, and looks great. 
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neilfortin
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bullet Posted: 11/20/06 at 10:20pm
You can also use paper mache and just apply it directly to your flats, it might be hard to get off tho. We have used it a number of times for large stone fireplaces, and to make stone columns for a lodge
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bullet Posted: 1/25/07 at 2:50pm
One method we used more than once, to huge success, was to cut out rounded chunks of styrofoam (leaving bottom edge flat), and then to spray paint them in two different shades of light and dark gray. (We actually got a deal on a bunch of styrofoam coolers and cut those up.)
 
The effect is not just one of color, but texture:  The spray paint reacts with the styrofoam to create a gorgeous "weathered" effect on the texture, actually eating into the foam in a few places. We then hot-glued the pieces onto the flats as needed.
 
However, BE CAREFUL AND TAKE PRECAUTIONS, as this does involve some fumes, so do it at your own risk!  To be as safe as possible, we did this only according to the following:
 
1.  Do it outside, in a nice open area with lots of fresh air
2.  Wear painters' masks to protect yourself from breathing the resulting fumes
3.  Remove kids and animals from the area before spraypainting
4.  Let the styrofoam dry thoroughly before using
 
Just wanted to make sure everyone's careful when doing this kind of thing where any fumes are involved. There's a negligible amount, but better safe than sorry.  But the result is gorgeous!
 
Hope it helps!
Angela Mitchell
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theaterhelper
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bullet Posted: 2/20/07 at 12:12pm
These fumes are VERY bad for you... as in long-term cancer causing and in the short term can cause severe photosensitivity (sunlight becomes painful to your eyeballs) that can last for days and cause permanent eye damage.  If you must melt foam with spraypaint, wear a full face respirator... not just a mask.  Still this is not a safe technique.  In the 60s a lot of theater folk melted lots of foam and did lots of crazy things with products that produced lots of fumes.  I know many of them who can trace very serious health problems including certain headache disorders, color blindness, and breathing problems directly to these practices. 
 
Floral spraypaint is safe for use on foam, and won't melt it.  It's expensive though. 
 
Carving the brick shapes in styrofoam (or plywood) can be done a bunch of different ways from routering the basic shapes to cutting the basic shapes out and gluing them down.  There is a mini-rasp called a Sure-Form that is fantastic for texturing foam.  There are also Japanese saws with bamboo handles that are great for massive amounts of foam carving. 
 
There is a community theater I worked with when I was young that cut lots of bricks and stones out of homosote.  They took their time carving and texturing and made each brick and stone perfect.  Now, when they have a use for bricks or stones, they treat their surface with the grout colors, usually with a spongy texture, and then simply attach their bricks or stones with 2 screws each.  They use these very frequently, and sometimes adjust the colors with glazes or extra sponging for variation between shows, but the bottom line is that they have a product that looks great and the investment keeps paying for itself.  Every coat of paint just adds a little more texture and they seem to become more realistic with every show.  The homosote really holds up well with repeated use, but takes longer to carve initially because it is harder.  The biggest down side is that the homosote makes things very heavy, so the structure they attach it too needs to be built well.  Also, there are often lots of screws sticking out of the backsides of their flats, so they have to keep sheets of foam on hand to stick on these backsides of flats to keep actors safe from impalment.
 
To get texture on styrofoam, but more safely, I suggest mixing sawdust into your paint until it becomes kind of the texture of oatmeal or a little more runny depending on how much texture you want.  Do this on the surface with your base color (With bricks a brick red, and with stones a grey or tan) and then dry brush or spatter accent colors.  Finish with adding shadowy grout colors in your grout and your result will be very nice.  Another option is joint compound mixed with a little white glue.  (The white glue adds flexibility that will prevent it from chipping as easily.)  Or a roofing compound called Jaxan 600 also makes good texture. 
Shed some light on the dark side of theatre at theaterhelper.com.
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bullet Posted: 11/15/07 at 8:40pm
For fake building materials like brick, stone, rock etc try www.vacuformstore.com we needed lots of plastic brick and plastic slate roof. They shipped quickly and were about 30.00 a 4x8 sheet. You can staple the plastic bricks / rocks to your flats and remove them when your done.
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bullet Posted: 1/12/10 at 2:12pm
Another great source is www.fauxwallskins.com.
Our product is 100% eco and looks great. The best brick skins are made of fiberglass, but they are heavy and toxic and expensive.  The most affordable is vacuum form but they are hard to work with and crack.  Our brick looks like fiberglass, has a nice thickness to it, is rigid and is the same price as vacuum form.
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